When you're hauling gravel, demolition debris, or wet topsoil down the highway, leaving your bed open isn't just risky—it's illegal in most jurisdictions. The Sure Trac dump trailer tarp kit is engineered specifically to fit factory integrated tarp mounts, turning a frustrating, ten-minute wrestling match into a thirty-second crank. Choosing the correct factory-compatible setup ensures the housing, aluminum roller bar, and anti-sail components align with your specific bed dimensions without forcing you to drill custom holes into heavy-gauge steel.
Understanding what comes in the box, how to install it cleanly, and why certain design elements matter will save you time and highway fines. This guide breaks down the core components, installation steps, common pitfalls, and practical maintenance tips for getting the longest lifespan out of your investment.
What Comes in the Kit
When you open a factory tarp package from Sure-Trac, you're getting a complete system tailored to match standard low-profile and heavy-duty dump configurations.
- Mesh or Vinyl Tarp Fabric: Most kits utilize heavy-duty mesh because it allows airflow, preventing the tarp from ballooning up like a parachute when you're cruising at highway speeds. Solid vinyl variants are available if you haul fine powders or need absolute waterproofing against heavy rain.
- Aluminum Hexagonal Roller Bar: Unlike round pipes that can slip inside the fabric pocket, the hexagonal shape locks the tarp securely in place as you crank it. Aluminum construction also prevents rust streaks from bleeding down your front bulkhead.
- Manual Crank Assembly: A sturdy fold-away crank handle with a smooth gear ratio or direct drive lets you roll and unroll the fabric from ground level safely.
- Mounting Brackets and Hardware: Heavy-duty steel brackets bolt directly into pre-punched holes or integrated keyways on the trailer's front bulkhead.
- Rear Anchor Bungees and Hooks: Heavy-duty rubber straps and J-hooks secure the tail end of the fabric tightly across the tailgate, stopping wind from lifting the edge while you drive.
Key Features That Matter on the Road
Factory-engineered kits outlast universal aftermarket alternatives because every component is built for commercial abuse.
- Integrated Keyway Design: The tarp slides into an extruded slot on the roller bar rather than relying on cheap screws or tape, distributing tension evenly across the entire width of the fabric.
- Anti-Sail Retention Systems: Side-securing straps and reinforced hem pockets keep the material flat against the top rail, preventing dangerous flapping that wears out stitching prematurely.
- Corrosion Resistance: Zinc-plated hardware, powder-coated brackets, and rust-free aluminum bars stand up to road salt, liquid fertilizers, and wet mulch without seizing up.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Installing your kit correctly prevents binding and ensures the fabric rolls straight every single time.
- Unpack and Inspect: Lay out all components on a clean workbench. Verify you have the correct width matching your specific trailer bed size (such as 6-foot or 7-foot wide low-profile models).
- Mount the Front Brackets: Bolt the driver-side and passenger-side pivot brackets to the front bulkhead or integrated mounting plates. Do not fully torque the bolts down until everything is aligned.
- Assemble the Roller Bar: Slide the hexagonal aluminum sections together if it's a multi-piece bar, then slide the leading edge of the tarp into the designated groove.
- Center the Fabric: Measure both sides of the tarp to ensure it is centered on the bar. If it's off by even an inch, the fabric will telescope to one side during rolling, eventually jamming against the mounting brackets.
- Attach the Crank Handle: Secure the crank assembly to the driver's side pivot point. Test the rotation to ensure the handle clears the hydraulic pump box, side steps, and dump hoist controls.
- Secure the Rear Stops: Fasten the pull rope and rear bungee hooks to the back corners of the trailer bed so you can pull the tarp back smoothly over a full load.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced contractors occasionally run into setup issues that shorten the life of their equipment.
- Skipping the Center Check: If you mount the fabric off-center on the roller bar, it bunches up against the frame, fraying the edges within a month of daily use.
- Over-Tensioning the Bungees: Stretching the rear rubber straps to their absolute limit causes them to snap under sun exposure and heavy wind pressure. Leave a small amount of slack so the straps absorb shock rather than tearing.
- Driving with Loose Flaps: Failing to secure the rear tail hooks allows wind to catch the underside of the fabric, which can bend your aluminum roller bar or rip the tarp right out of its keyway.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I upgrade my manual tarp kit to an electric motor later?
Yes, many owners start with the manual hand-crank kit and later swap the pivot assembly for an electric gear motor kit if they handle high-frequency commercial hauling where climbing up to crank is inefficient.
Will a mesh tarp keep my load dry during a heavy downpour?
No. Mesh tarps are designed for breathability and wind resistance, meaning water will pass through. If you are hauling materials that must stay bone dry, such as finished lumber or bagged drywall, opt for a solid vinyl replacement tarp.
Why is my tarp rolling up crooked?
A crooked roll almost always means the fabric wasn't centered during initial installation, or the trailer took an impact that shifted one of the side mounting brackets. Loosen the set screws, re-center the fabric on the hexagonal bar, and retighten everything securely.
How do I clean and maintain the fabric between jobs?
Hose off corrosive materials like concrete dust, fertilizer, or salted winter sand at the end of the week. Inspect the stitching along the hem lines periodically and treat the rubber bungees with a protective rubber conditioner to prevent dry rotting.
