Operating a vintage hay rake like the New Holland 256 requires a firm grasp of its mechanical assembly, from the ground-drive wheels to the delicate tooth bar tracks. When teeth snap or gearboxes bind in the middle of a heavy cutting window, having a reliable map of the machine stops being optional. You need an exact breakdown of sub-assemblies, part numbers, and replacement workflows to keep your forage moving without costly workshop delays.
The New Holland 256 parallel bar rake relies on a complex network of sprockets, chains, strippers, and wheel drives to lift and roll crop cleanly into windrows. Unlike modern rotary rakes driven strictly by tractor hydraulics or PTO shafts, the 256 uses ground traction to power its reel, meaning wheel slippage, worn drive chains, or seized bearings directly ruin your raking performance. Master the core sections of the parts breakdown, and you'll solve alignment issues and premature wear before they stall your harvest.
Wheel Drive and Ground Transmission Assembly
The entire motion of the New Holland 256 rake starts at the steel ground wheels and the internal pawl assemblies housed within the wheel hubs. If your reel stops turning while you're moving forward through the field, the problem rarely lies in the reel itself; it's almost always in the drive mechanism.
Inside the wheel hub, a spring-loaded pawl engages a ratchet gear when you pull the rake forward, transferring rotational force to the primary drive sprocket. When you back up, the pawl clicks freely to prevent the reel from running in reverse and bending the tines.
Common failure points in this assembly include:
- Worn Pawl Springs: Weak or rusted springs fail to push the pawl teeth firmly into the ratchet gear, causing intermittent reel rotation or complete failure under heavy crop loads.
- Seized Axle Bearings: Without regular grease injection via the zerk fittings, dust and moisture weld the axle bushings to the spindle, causing the wheel to drag rather than roll.
- Drive Chain Slack: The roller chain connecting the wheel sprocket to the intermediate shaft stretches over decades of use, leading to tooth jumping and loud ratcheting noises.
To service this area, lift the machine securely on jack stands, pull the dust cap and cotter pin off the wheel spindle, and slide the wheel assembly outward. Inspect the ratchet teeth for rounding; if the sharp edges of the teeth are worn flat, you'll need to replace both the pawl and the gear together.
Reel Tooth Bars and Bearing Spiders
The reel assembly on the New Holland 256 features multiple parallel tooth bars supported by cast-iron or steel spiders. These spiders rotate on an inclined axis, ensuring that the rubber-mounted or steel rake teeth stay vertical as they sweep across the stubble, lifting the crop gently without roping or churning dirt into the windrow.
Tooth bar maintenance is where operators spend most of their wrenching time. Each bar is held in place by end bushings and center bearings that endure constant radial stress and side-loading.
- Reel Teeth Replacement: Always check whether your machine uses single or double tines. When replacing broken tines, make sure the coil sits flat against the bar strap to prevent bolt shearing.
- Spider Bushings: As the nylon or bronze bushings inside the spider arms wear out, the tooth bars develop excessive play. You'll notice the bars slapping against each other or striking the stripper bars.
- Cam Track and Roller Bearings: The cam at the end of the reel controls the pitch of the teeth. If the small roller bearings riding inside this track seize up, the entire tooth bar will bind, bending the support arms instantly.
When overhauling the reel, check the alignment of each tooth bar with a straightedge. A single bent bar will throw off the timing of the entire rake, leaving clean streaks in the field where crop was missed.
Basket Lift and Transport Linkage
The New Holland 256 uses a mechanical or hydraulic lift system to raise the entire raking basket from the working position into transport mode. Getting this transition right keeps your teeth from dragging on gravel roads or getting smashed when turning sharp corners at the headlands.
The lift linkage consists of a crank arm, lift chains, and spring-assist counterbalances. The heavy-duty lift springs are critical; they offset the massive weight of the basket so you can raise and lower it smoothly using the manual pull rope or the optional hydraulic cylinder kit.
If your basket feels impossibly heavy to lift or refuses to stay locked in the transport position, inspect the latch mechanism and the tension on the counterbalance springs. Never adjust these springs while the basket is elevated; always lower the implement completely to relieve stored mechanical tension before touching the hardware.
Troubleshooting Common 256 Rake Failures
Even with a detailed parts diagram in front of you, diagnosing symptoms quickly saves valuable hours in the field. Here is how to trace common field issues back to their specific mechanical root causes:
- Symptom: The reel turns intermittently when pulling forward.
- Root Cause: Worn ratchet pawls in the ground wheel hub or excessive slack in the main drive chain. Clean out packed dirt from the hub and check spring tension.
- Symptom: Excessive vibration and clanking noise during operation.
- Root Cause: Worn spider bearings or a loose intermediate drive sprocket. Check for radial play by shaking the tooth bars by hand.
- Symptom: Rake leaves clean streaks of unraked hay on the left side.
- Root Cause: Bent tooth bar or missing rake teeth. Align the affected bar and replace any broken tines immediately.
- Symptom: Crop wraps around the reel bars instead of forming a windrow.
- Root Cause: Damaged or misaligned stripper bars. Ensure the clearance between the rotating teeth and the stationary strippers matches factory specs.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I adjust the raking angle on a New Holland 256?
You can adjust the angle of the basket relative to the tractor using the adjustable draft tongue and the top link. Lengthening or shortening the tongue changes how aggressively the basket angles toward the windrow, allowing you to build uniform windrows regardless of whether you're dealing with light second-cutting alfalfa or heavy grass mixes.
Where can I find official part numbers for obsolete New Holland 256 components?
While CNH Industrial provides legacy diagrams through authorized dealer portals, many high-wear parts like tines, chains, and bearings are stocked by aftermarket agricultural suppliers such as Messicks or Tractor Supply Co. Always match your specific serial number prefix when ordering, as New Holland introduced several minor engineering updates over the production run of the 256 model.
Can I convert a manual lift New Holland 256 to hydraulic lift?
Yes, aftermarket hydraulic conversion kits are widely available. These kits replace the mechanical rope-trip latch and manual lift lever with a standard single-acting hydraulic cylinder that hooks directly into your tractor's remote valve outlets, making field transport effortless.
What is the correct tire pressure for the ground drive wheels?
Maintain the manufacturer-recommended tire pressure—typically around 28 to 32 PSI depending on the specific tire ply rating. Uneven tire pressure across the two ground wheels causes the drive wheel to slip, resulting in erratic reel speed and uneven windrow formation.
