High top dreads combine shaved or faded sides with a dense, locked crown on top, creating a sharp silhouette that stands out in modern urban culture. This hairstyle marries traditional locking techniques with clean barbershop geometry, giving wearers a versatile look that’s easy to maintain compared to a full head of freeform locs.
Far from a fleeting trend, high top dreads serve as a canvas for personal identity, blending African heritage with contemporary streetwear aesthetics. Whether you're transitioning from short coils or starting from scratch with extensions, understanding the technique, care routine, and cultural context helps you wear the style with intention.
The Evolution of the High Top Loc Style
The roots of locked hair trace back centuries across various global traditions, from ancient East African communities to spiritual practices in the Caribbean. However, the distinct high top variation found its footing in modern times through the intersection of hip-hop culture, athletic influence, and barbering innovation.
During the 1990s and 2000s, musicians and athletes adopted high top fades and combined them with growing locs on the crown. This allowed individuals to enjoy the cultural significance and creative expression of locs while maintaining the clean-cut appearance required by many corporate workplaces or sports leagues at the time. Over the years, the style evolved from simple two-strand twists into complex geometric parting, freeform crown growth, and dyed tips.
Starting High Top Dreads: Methods and Preparation
Starting high top dreads requires a clear plan for your crown's dimensions and the fade on your sides and back. Rushing this initial stage often leads to weak roots or uneven parting.
Choosing Your Parting Structure
- Diamond Parts: Offers a clean, natural flow that prevents rigid grid lines.
- Square Parts: Creates a structured, uniform look that makes maintenance straightforward.
- Freeform Roots: Allows hair to lock naturally at the top without strict parting, giving a rugged finish.
Common Starting Techniques
- Two-Strand Twists: Great for hair types 4A through 4C. Twisting sections gives the hair an immediate structure and accelerates the locking process.
- Comb Coils: Ideal for shorter hair. A rat-tail comb wraps individual sections into tight cylindrical coils that mature into locs.
- Instant Locing (Crochet Method): Uses a fine crochet hook to instantly tangle hair fibers. This method gives you immediate mature-looking locs without waiting months for natural locking.
For a deeper dive into natural hair care and maintenance standards, consult resources provided by the Natural Hair Industry Convention.
Daily Maintenance and Upkeep Routine
Maintaining high top dreads requires balancing a clean scalp with moisture retention. Neglecting your hair leads to buildup, lint, and thinning roots.
Washing and Drying
Wash your locs every one to two weeks using a residue-free clarifying shampoo. Traditional shampoos leave softeners behind that get trapped inside the loc matrix, causing mildew and odors. Always dry your hair completely using a hooded dryer or microfiber towel; damp locs harbor moisture that weakens the inner strands.
Scalp Care and Hydration
Keep your scalp moisturized with lightweight oils like jojoba or argan oil. Avoid heavy petroleum-based greases that cling to the locs and attract lint. Spray your crown daily with a rosewater-based mist to keep the hair pliable and prevent breakage at the roots.
Maintaining the Fade
The contrast of a high top depends entirely on the cleanliness of the shaved sides and back. Visit your barber every two weeks to maintain the fade line, clean up the hairline, and prevent stray hairs from creeping into your high top crown.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Over-Twisting: Retwisting your roots every week causes severe tension alopecia, pulling hair away from the scalp and thinning your edges. Stick to a retwist schedule of every 4 to 6 weeks.
- Skipping Scalp Cleansing: Believing that locs shouldn't be washed often leads to dry, itchy scalps and heavy product buildup.
- Using Heavy Waxes: Waxes and heavy gels do not wash out easily. They accumulate inside the locs over time, weighing them down and attracting dust.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for high top dreads to lock?
Depending on your hair texture and starting method, hair typically takes between 6 to 12 months to fully mature into a solid loc. Crochet methods provide instant locking, but the internal matrix still takes several months to tighten completely.
Can I get high top dreads with short hair?
Yes, you can start high top dreads with hair as short as two to three inches using comb coils or two-strand twists. If your hair is shorter, extension hair (such as afro-kuri human hair) can be crocheted in to achieve immediate length.
How often should I get a retwist?
A retwist is recommended every 4 to 6 weeks. Waiting longer than two months can cause neighboring locs to marry together at the roots, making them difficult to separate without breakage.
Do high top dreads hurt your scalp?
Properly installed and maintained dreads should never cause pain. If your scalp throbs or feels tight after a retwist, the technician is pulling the hair too tightly, which risks long-term follicle damage.
