Installing ape hangers on a Suzuki Intruder 1500 transforms the cruiser's ergonomics and road presence. It shifts your riding position into a classic chopper stance, but the conversion requires careful management of extended lines, wiring extensions, and precise torque specs.
Tackling this modification means dealing with the heavy front end of a large-displacement metric cruiser. Factory lines won't reach a taller set of bars, so you'll need extended throttle cables, clutch lines, brake lines, and wire extensions before you unbolt the stock setup.
Choosing the Right Bar Height and Style
Before turning a single wrench, match your handlebar height to your torso and arm length. On a heavy machine like the Intruder 1500, going too high creates steering leverage issues and shoulder fatigue during long rides.
- 12-inch mini-apes: Usually work with minimal modifications to wiring harnesses, though custom brake and clutch lines are still mandatory. They offer a comfortable arm angle without changing the bike's high-speed stability drastically.
- 14 to 16-inch ape hangers: Provide the classic tall look but demand complete wire extensions and extended custom cables. Measure your pull-back preference and check whether you prefer squared-off "z-bars" or traditional rounded curves.
Essential Parts Checklist
Gathering components beforehand prevents mid-project stalls. Because stock lengths fall short, source these items before tearing down the front end: To see the complete picture, check out the excellent article by The New York Times.
- Extended Cables: Throttle push and pull cables, a longer hydraulic clutch line, and an extended stainless steel front brake line. Check out Accessories International for specific cruiser options.
- Wiring Extensions: Heat-shrink tubing, solder, or quality butt connectors to extend switch housing wires by 12 to 18 inches.
- Basic Hardware: Fresh gaskets, threadlocker, and clean shop rags to protect your tank from accidental scratches during the swap.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Disassembling the Stock Cockpit
Start by parking the bike on a level surface and disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Cover your fuel tank with a thick blanket or moving pad to prevent costly dents from dropped wrenches or heavy handlebars.
- Remove the upper and lower handlebar cover plastics or nacelle components to expose the riser bolts and wiring entry points.
- Unbolt the front brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder, carefully supporting them so fluid doesn't spill or damage painted surfaces.
- Disconnect the throttle cables from the right grip assembly and free the switch housing wiring blocks inside the headlight bucket or frame caddy.
- Remove the four handlebar clamp bolts and lift the stock bar clean off the machine.
Routing and Extending the Wiring
Internal wiring gives ape hangers a clean look, but pulling wires through sharp bends takes patience. If you prefer external routing, zip-ties keep the harness neat against the new tubing.
- Label every individual wire inside the switch housings before cutting anything. Never trust color codes alone if you are splicing multiple identical strands.
- Solder each extension securely, staggering your splices so the harness doesn't form a bulky lump that gets stuck inside the handlebar tubing.
- Slide marine-grade heat-shrink tubing over every soldered joint and shrink it with a heat gun to prevent short circuits against the metal interior of the bars.
Mounting the New Handlebars
- Position your new ape hangers into the lower risers, dropping the top clamps into place without fully tightening them yet.
- Adjust the pullback angle so the grips align roughly with the natural angle of your arms when seated.
- Torque the riser bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern to factory specifications, ensuring uniform gap clearance at the front clamp interface.
Routing Extended Lines and Bleeding Hydraulics
Route your new clutch and brake lines carefully down the steering neck, avoiding pinch points against the frame or triple trees.
- Install the extended throttle cables, ensuring smooth movement and proper free play at the twist grip before buttoning up the switch housings.
- Bolt the hydraulic clutch line and front brake master cylinder back onto the bars, using fresh crush washers on all banjo fittings.
- Bleed the hydraulic brake and clutch systems thoroughly to eliminate spongy lever feel. Pump the lines until firm pressure returns and verify that fluid reservoirs stay topped off.
Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping wire slack checks: Turning the front wheel fully lock-to-lock can tug on hidden wires if your harness is too tight, causing intermittent electrical failures or stuck throttle conditions.
- Overlooking brake line routing: A poorly routed brake line can catch on the headlight housing or triple tree during turns, wearing through the outer mesh over time.
- Rushing the soldering phase: Weak solder joints break under vibration. Always pull test your splices gently before heat-shrinking them.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to replace my stock cables when installing mini-apes?
Yes. Even 10 or 12-inch bars lift the controls high enough that factory throttle, clutch, and brake lines will stretch dangerously tight or bind during steering sweeps.
How do I stop internal wires from fraying inside sharp handlebar bends?
Use deburred internal channels, pull wires using coated fish tape, and wrap bundle sections in protective loom cloth before pulling them through narrow corners.
Will taller ape hangers affect highway handling?
Taller bars catch more wind resistance against your upper body, and the extra leverage can make low-speed parking lot maneuvers feel slightly heavier until you adjust to the new geometry.
Can I reuse factory electrical connectors?
You can de-pin the original plastic connectors rather than cutting wires if you want a factory-clean extension harness without solder joints, though it requires a precision pick tool.
