High Top Dreads: Setup, Maintenance, And Styling

High top dreads combine structured locs on the crown with cleanly faded sides and back. This sharp contrast creates an architectural silhouette that demands precision both in the chair and during daily upkeep. You get the organic movement of dreadlocks paired with the crisp lines of a modern barber fade.

Achieving this style requires understanding hair textures, correct sectioning, and strict maintenance routines. If you skip steps during the initial locking phase or neglect regular skin-and-root care, your locs will thin out, tangle at the base, or suffer from moisture buildup. We're going to break down every single phase so you can build and maintain a clean, resilient set of high top dreads.

Phase One: Preparation and Sectioning

Before any product touches your hair, you need a clean, stable foundation. High top dreads rely on uniform parting. If your parts are sloppy, your locs will shift, rub together unevenly, and create weak spots where hair breaks off.

Start with a thorough clarifying wash. Standard shampoos leave conditioning agents and silicones behind that coat the hair shaft. This coating prevents the hair cuticles from friction-locking together. Use a pure clarifying shampoo to strip all residue. Dry your hair completely with a towel or a diffuser on low heat. Never start locking damp hair; trapped moisture inside thick sections breeds mildew and creates an unpleasant odor that is nearly impossible to remove without combing out the locs entirely.

Next, section the top portion of your head. Use a rat-tail comb to map out clean squares or diamonds across the designated high top zone. Secure each parted section with a small clip. The standard size for modern high top dreads ranges from half-inch to one-inch squares. Smaller parts yield tighter, pencil-thin locs that take longer to form but offer high versatility. Larger parts create thick, chunky barrel locs that mature faster but require more initial volume.

Phase Two: Locking Techniques

Once your hair is sectioned and dry, you must choose a locking technique that suits your hair texture and desired aesthetic. Two primary methods dominate high top dread styling: comb coiling and crochet hooking.

Comb Coiling

Comb coiling works best for tighter curl patterns, such as 4A to 4C hair types, that are at least three to four inches long.

1. Take a single square section and apply a tiny amount of loc gel or locking wax to the roots and length. Do not oversaturate; excessive product attracts lint and buildup.
2. Place the teeth of a fine-toothed comb right at the scalp within the section.
3. Rotate the comb tightly in a circular motion while pulling gently downward toward the ends. The hair will naturally wrap around itself into a neat spiral tube.
4. Secure the end of the coil with a small rubber band if your hair texture is exceptionally loose, though many hair types hold the coil pattern immediately.

Crochet Hooking

Crochet hooking works across a broader range of hair textures, including straight, wavy, and loose curly hair, and yields instant locked results.

1. Take a prepared section and backcomb it firmly toward the scalp using a teasing comb to build an initial matted core.
2. Take a fine-gauge crochet hook (typically 0.5mm or 0.75mm) and insert it horizontally through the matted hair mass.
3. Hook a few loose strands on the outside, pull them inward through the center of the mass, and pull the hook back out.
4. Repeat this motion rapidly up and down the length of the section. The mechanical action knots the hair fibers together instantly, creating a firm, cylindrical loc.

Phase Three: Executing the High Top Fade

The signature element of high top dreads is the stark boundary where the locs stop and the scalp shows. A sloppy fade ruins the entire geometric effect. You need precise clipper work or a professional barber to establish and maintain this contrast.

The fade usually drops slightly behind the ear or runs straight across the occipital bone, depending on your head shape. The transition zone requires a clean gradient. Your barber will start with a longer guard—such as a #2 or #3—near the lower edge of the loc base, then step down progressively to shorter guards (#1, #0.5) as they move down toward the neck and ears.

For the ultimate finish, the perimeter should be edged out with a trimer and cleaned with a straight razor. This creates a razor-sharp line of skin against the heavy weight of the dreads above. You'll need to touch up this fade every two to three weeks because hair regrowth quickly blurs those sharp geometric lines.

Phase Four: Daily Maintenance and Root Care

Maintenance determines whether your high top dreads look intentional or neglected. Neglecting your roots leads to "thinning roots" where the heavy loc breaks away from the scalp.

Establish a consistent washing schedule. Wash your locs every one to two weeks using a residue-free shampoo. Work the lather gently into your scalp and let the suds run down the length of the locs. Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Always dry your hair completely using a hooded dryer or a handheld blow dryer on a cool-to-warm setting.

Between washes, manage new growth using palm rolling.

1. Grab a single loc at the base near your scalp.
2. Place the loc flat between the palms of your hands.
3. Roll your hands back and forth rapidly, forcing loose hairs around the root into the body of the loc.
4. Tie your hair down with a satin or silk durag or bonnet at night to prevent friction and frizz.

For more details on hair health and scalp management, read the American Academy of Dermatology hair care guides. You can also explore styling variations through resources like Vogue.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Many people run into trouble within the first six months of wearing high top dreads. Avoiding these frequent missteps will save you months of frustration:

• Using Heavy Waxes: Slathering thick beeswax onto your locs traps dirt, dust, and lint. Over time, this creates heavy white balls inside the locs that require professional extraction or cutting.
• Skipping Scalp Moisture: While you shouldn't grease your locs, your scalp still needs hydration. Apply a few drops of lightweight jojoba or argan oil directly to the skin twice a week.
• Over-Tightening: Twisting or interlocking your roots too frequently puts constant tension on the follicles, leading to traction alopecia and permanent hair loss along the fade line. Stick to a four-to-six-week retwist cycle.
• Neglecting Drying: Leaving your hair damp after a workout or a wash invites mold growth inside thick locs. Always ensure absolute dryness.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does hair need to be to start high top dreads?

Your hair should be at least three to four inches long for comb coils. If you use the crochet method, two inches of hair is often enough to grab and lock.

Can I get high top dreads with straight hair?

Yes. Straight hair cannot use traditional locking gels or coils effectively, so you must rely on backcombing combined with crochet hooking or the freeform neglect method, though crochet provides the cleanest results for a high top style.

How often should I get my fade cut?

To keep the geometric high top look sharp, visit your barber every two to three weeks to clean up the fade and edge lines.

Do high top dreads damage your hairline?

They only cause damage if you pull them back too tightly into ponytails or twist the roots excessively. Keep your styling loose and give your edges room to breathe.