Changing the oil in a ninth-generation sedan requires knowing that the 2013 Honda Accord 2.4 oil capacity is 4.4 US quarts (4.2 liters) when replacing the oil filter, or 4.2 quarts without a filter change. Getting this measurement right prevents engine strain or improper lubrication. This 2.4-liter Earth Dreams four-cylinder engine runs exclusively on 0W-20 full synthetic motor oil to meet strict fuel economy and internal clearance standards.
Exact Oil Specifications and Types
Honda specifies genuine Honda or Mobil 1 0W-20 full synthetic oil meeting API certification standards for this powertrain. Using synthetic oil isn't optional for longevity; conventional oils break down too quickly under the high operating temperatures of direct-injection engines.
- Viscosity Grade: 0W-20 for all normal driving climates.
- Oil Category: Full Synthetic (API Certified).
- Filter Capacity: Adds approximately 0.2 quarts to the total baseline fill.
- Alternative Weights: Avoid 5W-20 or 5W-30 unless specified for emergency top-offs in older high-mileage variations, though 0W-20 remains mandatory for optimal variable valve timing (VTEC) operation.
Tools and Supplies Needed
Gathering equipment beforehand keeps the process efficient and mess-free. You'll need standard garage supplies along with a few vehicle-specific items.
- 5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic motor oil.
- A high-efficiency replacement oil filter (such as a Wix 57356 or Fram equivalent).
- A 17mm socket and ratchet for the oil pan drain plug.
- A fresh crush washer for the drain bolt to prevent slow leaks.
- An oil filter wrench (the filter sits in a tight spot near the exhaust header).
- A drain pan, clean shop rags, and a funnel.
- Car ramps or a hydraulic floor jack paired with sturdy jack stands.
Step-by-Step Oil Change Procedure
Safety comes first. Never crawl under a car supported solely by a hydraulic jack. Always secure the vehicle on level ground, engage the parking brake, and use wheel chocks.
- Warm up the engine: Run the car for three to five minutes to warm the oil, making it less viscous so it drains completely along with suspended contaminants. Shut off the engine.
- Elevate the front end: Drive onto heavy-duty service ramps or lift the vehicle safely with a jack and secure it on jack stands.
- Locate and remove the drain plug: Slide under the passenger side of the engine bay. Position your drain pan beneath the metal oil pan. Use your 17mm socket to loosen the drain plug counter-clockwise, then unscrew it by hand while pulling away quickly to avoid hot oil on your fingers.
- Drain the old oil: Let the stream taper off completely for about ten minutes. Inspect the old crush washer on the plug; discard it.
- Remove the old filter: Locate the oil filter on the front side of the block. Position the drain pan underneath it, loosen it with your filter wrench, and spin it off. Watch out for residual oil spilling down the engine block.
- Prep the new filter: Dip a clean finger into a bottle of fresh 0W-20 oil and smear a thin layer across the rubber gasket of the new filter. This ensures a proper seal and makes future removal easier. Screw the new filter on by hand until it seats firmly, then turn it about three-quarters to one full turn more. Do not over-tighten with a wrench.
- Reinstall the drain plug: Place a new crush washer onto the drain plug and thread it into the oil pan by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten it down securely with the socket wrench to approximately 30 ft-lbs of torque.
- Fill with fresh oil: Pop the hood, remove the oil filler cap on top of the valve cover, and insert your clean funnel. Pour in 4.2 quarts if you left the old filter alone, or the full 4.4 quarts if you replaced it. Remove the funnel and screw the filler cap back on tightly.
- Check for leaks and level: Start the engine and let it idle for thirty seconds while keeping an eye underneath for any leaks around the filter or drain plug. Shut the car down, wait two minutes for oil to settle back into the pan, pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it, and verify that the fluid level sits right at the upper dot.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Reusing the old crush washer: This small aluminum or copper ring flattens upon initial torque. Reusing it often leads to persistent oil drips that can damage your driveway or starve the engine.
- Over-tightening the filter: Cranking the oil filter down with a wrench warps the rubber seal and makes it nearly impossible to remove during your next service interval. Hand-tight is enough.
- Forgetting to check the dipstick: Relying solely on the manual's capacity number without verifying the dipstick can lead to running low if the old filter didn't drain completely.
Frequently Asked Questions
What happens if I use 5W-30 instead of 0W-20?
Using a slightly heavier oil in an emergency won't destroy the engine immediately, but it reduces fuel efficiency and can cause sluggish VTEC activation during freezing winter mornings. Stick to 0W-20 for regular maintenance.
How often should I change the oil on this model?
The maintenance minder system on the dashboard calculates oil life based on your driving habits, typically triggering a change alert between 5,000 and 7,500 miles. If you drive in severe conditions—such as heavy city traffic or dusty roads—aim for the closer interval.
Why does my 2.4L Accord consume oil between changes?
The direct-injection Earth Dreams engine family is known to experience modest oil consumption over time due to piston ring tolerances. Check your oil level manually every two fuel fill-ups to catch low levels before the warning light trips.
Can I change the oil without lifting the car?
Due to the generous ground clearance of the Accord sedan, some owners can slide underneath to access the drain plug and filter without jacks. However, using low-profile ramps provides vital working room and safety clearance.
