The 2013 Honda Accord 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine requires exactly 4.4 quarts of oil when replacing the oil filter, and 4.2 quarts during a standard drain without filter replacement. Using the factory-specified 0W-20 full synthetic oil keeps the Earth Dreams direct-injection engine running cleanly, efficiently, and protected across varying weather conditions.
Changing your own oil saves money and lets you inspect vital underbody components. Doing the job right means knowing the exact specs, torque values, and common pitfalls that amateur mechanics often run into.
Exact Specifications and Fluid Requirements
Getting the numbers right prevents engine damage and ensures optimal fuel economy. The 2.4L Earth Dreams engine in the ninth-generation Accord relies on tight tolerances that demand specific lubricants.
- Engine Oil Capacity (with filter): 4.4 quarts (4.2 liters)
- Engine Oil Capacity (without filter): 4.2 quarts (4.0 liters)
- Oil Viscosity Grade: SAE 0W-20
- Oil Type: Full synthetic meeting API certification standards
- Oil Drain Plug Torque: 30 lb-ft (41 Nm)
- Crush Washer Size: 14mm aluminum or copper
Always buy a 5-quart jug so you have enough for the initial fill plus a small amount left over for future top-offs.
Tools and Supplies Needed
Gathering your equipment beforehand prevents frustrating mid-job trips to the auto parts store. You'll need:
- 5 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic motor oil
- Replacement oil filter (such as an OEM Honda filter or equivalent premium filter)
- New 14mm crush washer
- 17mm socket and ratchet
- Oil filter wrench (if the previous filter was overtightened)
- Drain pan and funnel
- Clean shop rags or paper towels
- Floor jack and sturdy jack stands (or car ramps)
Step-by-Step Oil Change Procedure
Safety comes first. Always secure your vehicle on solid, level ground using wheel chocks and rated jack stands. Never crawl under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack.
Step 1: Warm Up the Engine
Run the engine for three to five minutes to warm the oil. Warm oil flows faster and carries away suspended sludge and contaminants more effectively than cold oil. Shut off the ignition and set the parking brake.
Step 2: Drain the Old Oil
Locate the oil drain plug on the passenger side of the oil pan underneath the engine. Place your drain pan directly beneath the plug. Loosen the 17mm bolt counterclockwise with your ratchet, then carefully spin it out by hand, pushing inward slightly to keep oil from leaking out prematurely until the final threads disengage. Let the oil drain completely into the pan.
Step 3: Replace the Crush Washer and Torque the Plug
Inspect the drain plug threads. Remove the old crush washer and install a fresh 14mm washer. Thread the plug back into the oil pan by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten it down to 30 lb-ft using a torque wrench. Overtightening strips the aluminum oil pan threads, leading to costly repairs.
Step 4: Remove and Replace the Oil Filter
The oil filter sits near the front of the engine block. Place your drain pan underneath it because some oil will spill out when you loosen it. Turn the filter counterclockwise using a filter wrench if necessary. Before installing the new filter, dip a clean finger into fresh oil and smear a thin layer across the rubber gasket. This ensures a proper seal and makes future removal easier. Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket seats firmly, then turn it an additional three-quarters to one full turn. Do not use a wrench to tighten the new filter.
Step 5: Fill with Fresh Oil
Remove the oil filler cap under the hood. Insert your clean funnel and pour in 4.4 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic oil. Reinstall the filler cap securely.
Step 6: Check Levels and Reset the Maintenance Minder
Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds while checking underneath for any leaks around the drain plug and filter. Turn off the car, wait two minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan, pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, and check the level. It should sit right at the upper dot. Finally, reset your dashboard oil life monitor by holding the trip button until the oil percentage flashes, then pressing and holding it again until it resets to 100%.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Reusing the old crush washer: A crushed washer cannot seal properly a second time, which causes slow leaks. Always use a new one.
- Overtightening the drain plug or filter: Cranking down too hard on either component causes stripped threads or warped filter gaskets.
- Forgetting to check the dipstick: Relying purely on the dry capacity number without verifying the dipstick level leaves room for error if old oil didn't drain completely.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use conventional oil instead of full synthetic?
No. Honda designed the 2.4L Earth Dreams engine for 0W-20 full synthetic oil. Conventional oils lack the thermal stability required for tight modern engine clearances and can cause premature wear or sludge buildup.
Why does my dipstick show low oil after adding 4.4 quarts?
When you change the filter, it absorbs a small amount of oil upon initial startup. Run the engine for 30 seconds, shut it down, wait a few minutes, and check the dipstick again. Many owners find that adding a tiny bit more—bringing the total closer to 4.5 or 4.8 quarts—brings the level precisely to the upper mark.
How often should I change the oil in a 2013 Honda Accord?
While the vehicle's onboard Maintenance Minder usually triggers between 5,000 and 7,500 miles depending on driving habits, changing synthetic oil every 5,000 to 7,000 miles ensures long-term engine longevity.
