The 1987 Toyota Cressida bridges the gap between old-school Japanese reliability and rear-wheel-drive luxury. Packing the legendary 5M-GE inline-six engine shared with early Supras, this vintage cruiser has transitioned from a forgotten family sedan into a prized platform for retro enthusiasts and drifters alike. If you're looking to buy, fix, or rebuild one, understanding its factory specifications, notorious mechanical flaws, and restoration hurdles is essential before turning a single wrench.
1987 Toyota Cressida Technical Specifications
Factory specifications for the 1987 model year highlight its position as Toyota's flagship luxury sedan before the Lexus brand arrived in North America. Built on a sturdy rear-wheel-drive (RWD) platform, it offered a plush ride without sacrificing mechanical simplicity.
- Engine: 2.8-liter 5M-GE inline-six, dual overhead cam (DOHC), 12 valves.
- Horsepower: 156 hp at 5,600 rpm.
- Torque: 165 lb-ft at 4,400 rpm.
- Transmission: A43DL 4-speed automatic with overdrive, or an optional 5-speed manual (W58).
- Suspension: Independent MacPherson strut front, semi-trailing arm independent rear.
- Brakes: Power-assisted front and rear discs with anti-lock features on select trims.
- Dimensions: Wheelbase of 105.9 inches, curb weight hovering around 3,100 lbs.
Common Mechanical Issues and Failure Points
While these cars earned a reputation for running indefinitely with basic upkeep, four decades take a heavy toll on gaskets, electronics, and cooling systems. Knowing what breaks saves you from unexpected roadside breakdowns.
Head Gasket Failure and Cooling Stress
The 5M-GE engine is notorious for head gasket issues, largely stemming from factory torque specifications and aluminum-head-on-cast-iron-block thermal expansion differences. If the engine overheats even once, expect the head gasket to blow. Watch for white smoke from the exhaust, losing coolant without visible leaks, or milky oil under the valve cover. When rebuilding or replacing the gasket, upgrading to a multi-layer steel (MLS) gasket and using ARP head studs prevents repeat failures.
Automatic Transmission Slippage
Most models rolled off the assembly line with the A43DL automatic transmission. As mileage climbs past 150,000 miles, these units suffer from delayed engagement, harsh shifting, or complete slippage in overdrive. Fluid changes help, but worn clutch packs require a total rebuild. Many owners bypass this headache entirely by swapping in a modern W58 or R150 manual transmission from a later Toyota truck or Supra.
Electrical and Sensor Gremlins
Old wiring harnesses, brittle connectors, and tired sensors plague 1980s Japanese electronics. The airflow meter (AFM) and oxygen sensors frequently fail, causing rough idle, surging, and terrible fuel economy. Inspect ground straps meticulously; corrosion on the main engine ground leads to erratic dash lights and starting failure.
Body Rust Hotspots
Although Japanese sheet metal from this era fared better than European competitors, rust still creeps into specific zones. Inspect the rear wheel arches, rocker panels, lower door corners, and the trunk floor near the spare tire well. Sunroof-equipped models frequently clog their drain tubes, resulting in damp carpets and hidden floorboard corrosion.
Step-by-Step Restoration Roadmap
Breathing new life into a tired chassis requires a methodical approach. Don't tear down the interior and engine simultaneously, or you'll risk losing momentum halfway through the project.
- Mechanical Baseline: Before touching paint or suspension, make the engine run reliably. Replace all rubber coolant hoses, vacuum lines, the timing belt, and spark plug wires. Flush the fuel system and clean the fuel injectors.
- Suspension and Brakes: Rubber bushings turn to dust after forty years. Swap out the old control arm bushings, tie rod ends, and shock absorbers with polyurethane or OEM-spec replacements. Rebuild the brake calipers and install fresh lines.
- Interior Restoration: Sourcing mint interior trim pieces can test your patience. Focus on cleaning dashboard plastics with mild UV protectants, recovering cracked seats through a local upholstery shop, and sourcing replacement door handle pulls that often snap due to brittle plastic.
- Exterior and Paint: Address rust remediation immediately before applying fresh paint. Cut out compromised metal and weld in new patch panels rather than hiding rust under fiberglass filler.
You can find historical service documentation and enthusiast restoration logs through the Toyota Owners Official Site for maintenance guidance. For deep technical specifications and wiring diagrams, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration provides access to original vehicle safety recalls and documentation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you easily swap a 1JZ or 2JZ engine into this car?
Yes, engine swaps are immensely popular for this chassis. The engine bay has ample length, making a JZ-series turbo swap a straightforward path to modern horsepower, though custom engine mounts and driveshaft modifications are required.
Are replacement parts hard to find?
Routine maintenance parts like brake pads, filters, and gaskets remain widely available through auto parts stores. However, trim-specific exterior body panels, glass, and interior plastics are discontinued, meaning you'll need to rely on junkyard salvage or enthusiast Facebook groups.
What kind of fuel economy does it get?
In stock trim with the automatic transmission, expect roughly 18 to 20 miles per gallon in city driving and around 24 miles per gallon on the highway, provided your fuel injectors and oxygen sensors are operating correctly.
Is a manual swap difficult to do?
The manual swap requires sourcing a W58 transmission, pedal box, manual clutch master cylinder, and a custom or modified driveshaft, but it fundamentally transforms the driving dynamics from a lazy cruiser into a engaging retro sports sedan.
